Open plans and beams
Open plans and beams
A wall comes out, a beam goes in, and the weight above it goes somewhere that has been checked.
Taking out a wall that carries a load is the job where a good drawing matters most. We find out what the wall holds up, an engineer sizes the beam and the posts, and we show you where every post will land.
What is included
Finding out what the wall carries
A beam and posts sized by an engineer
Temporary supports while the wall is out
Wiring, plumbing and ducts rerouted from the wall
Drywall, flooring and paint to close it up
What it doesn't cover
Not part of the price unless we write it in
Cabinets and counters
A new layout often means a new kitchen. That is a separate plan with its own price.
Flooring across the opening
Included where the old and new floors meet. Refinishing the whole room is separate.
A second beam
If the engineer finds one beam can't do it, we write it up before we start.
Heating and cooling changes
If the wall holds ducts, the new routing is in the price. Resizing the system is not.
What changes the cost
What moves the number
We print no figures here, because the cost depends on the house and the lot. These are the things that move it.
What the wall carries
A wall under a second floor or the roof carries more than a wall under nothing.
The beam
Wood, engineered lumber or steel, and whether it sits in the ceiling or below it.
Where the posts land
A post needs footing below it. If it lands on the floor of a crawlspace, we add one.
What's inside the wall
Wiring, a plumbing stack or a duct that has to move.
The ceiling and floor
Repair along the line where the wall was, including flooring.
Dust and the time you're without the room
Plastic and a clean-up that keeps the rest of the house habitable.
How it goes
From the first visit to the last walkthrough
- 01
Step 1: Find the load path
We look from the attic to the crawlspace and mark where the wall's weight goes.
- 02
Step 2: Engineer sizes the beam
Drawings show the beam, the posts and the footings.
- 03
Step 3: Permit
A building permit with the engineer's drawing attached.
- 04
Step 4: Shore and open
Temporary walls hold the ceiling. The old wall comes out.
- 05
Step 5: Set the beam
The beam and posts go in, and the inspector looks before they are covered.
- 06
Step 6: Close and finish
Drywall, trim, floors and paint, with the old and new matched as closely as the house allows.
Permits
Permits and rules
Taking out a bearing wall needs a building permit in Mecklenburg County, and the permit office normally wants an engineer's drawing of the beam. We file both.
In a house built before 1978, taking down a wall disturbs paint, and the EPA's renovation rule applies. Our certification is on the credentials page.
Homeowners' associations and historic district commissions generally review exterior changes, not an interior wall, but check your own rules.
Questions
Common questions
How do you know if a wall is load-bearing?
We look. We trace the framing in the attic and the crawlspace, see which way the joists run and where they end, and mark what sits on the wall. An engineer confirms before we draw the beam.
Can the beam be hidden in the ceiling?
Often, if the ceiling is high enough and the joists can be framed around it. Where not, a beam below the ceiling can be boxed or left as a feature.
What about the ducts and wiring in the wall?
They are rerouted, and the cost is in the price. We tell you at the first visit what we think is in there, and what we find when it opens.
How much mess is it?
A lot of dust for a short time. We hang plastic, close off the area and keep the rest of the house usable.
Start with a walk around the house
We'll look, measure and tell you what we see.